Invisible zippers are a very popular choice for garment closures. They disappear into a seam, making them virtually undectable—when inserted properly. They work best on light- to medium-weight fabrics.
It’s a good idea to baste your invisible zipper in place by hand before stitching it on the machine—I’ve noticed that this little step makes invisible zippers so much easier for first-timers! (Once you gain confidence, you can try skipping this step and simply pin each side before sewing.)
Here’s what you’ll need:
Your garment, with the zipper seam completely unsewn
Coats Invisible Zipper
A regular zipper foot (this is used to close the seam after the zipper is inserted)
Start stitching. You may need to keep finger-pressing the teeth open as you stitch down the zipper tape. It’s crucial that you stitch exactly in that ditch. If you stitch too close to the teeth (or worse, on top of them), the zipper will get stuck as you try to close it. If you stitch too far away, your zipper tape will show when the zipper is closed, and it won’t be an invisible zipper any more! If you accidentally stitch on top of the teeth, stop, remove the stitches, and try again. If you stitch too far away, you can try again without having to remove your stitches. When you get as far as you can go (the zipper pull will eventually stop you), backstitch and stop.
12. Remove your basting. And you’re done!
Gretchen “Gertie” Hirsch is a passionate home seamstress and the creator of one of the web’s most popular sewing blogs: Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing. She teaches sewing in New York City, around the country, on PBS’s It’s Sew Easy, and on Craftsy.com. Her work has been featured in Sew Stylish, Vogue Patterns Magazine, Threads Magazine, Stitch Magazine, and on Jezebel.com.