Have you noticed how often exposed zippers are showing up these days? Zippers are being installed with their teeth exposed in pockets, jackets, bags, sportswear–you name it.
A pocket with an exposed zipper on a jacket or bag is something you see frequently in ready-to-wear, but we often shy away from it when sewing. Adding this designer touch is not that difficult. Here are the easy steps:
Cut Pocket Lining fabric: Length: 2 times pocket depth +1 1/2″ Width: zipper length + 3″
Mark zipper opening on right side of garment, wrong side of lining. For an all-purpose zipper, opening will be 1/4″, for a jeans or sport zipper, 3/8 – 1/2″. On lining, center of zipper teeth should be 1″ from upper edge.
Pin lining to garment, right sides together, matching the markings. Stitch around the opening. Slash through the center stopping 1/2″ from the ends. Clip into corners. Turn the lining to the inside and press.
Center the closed zippper in the opening. Using a zipper foot, topstitch close to the edge around all sides.
Fold the pocket lning up. Stitch the sides of the pocket with a narrow seam. Zig zag or overcast edges.
Turn to the right side facing up. Fold the top above the zipper down, so that you see the narrow seam. Using a zipper foot, stitch across the top of the narrow seam.
You are done! Still feel a little nervous about trying it? Use this technique to add a pocket to the lining of a purse. It gives a very finished appearance and you can “test drive” the technique in an inconspicuous place.