Zippers Exposed!

Simplicity 2568

Have you noticed how often exposed zippers are showing up these days? Zippers are being installed with their teeth exposed in pockets, jackets, bags, sportswear–you name it.

A pocket with an exposed zipper on a jacket or bag is something you see frequently in ready-to-wear, but we often shy away from it when sewing. Adding this designer touch is not that difficult. Here are the easy steps:

Cut Pocket Lining fabric: Length: 2 times pocket depth +1 1/2″ Width: zipper length + 3″

Step 1
Mark zipper opening on right side of garment, wrong side of lining. For an all-purpose zipper, opening will be 1/4″, for a jeans or sport zipper, 3/8 – 1/2″. On lining, center of zipper teeth should be 1″ from upper edge.

Step 2

Pin lining to garment, right sides together, matching the markings. Stitch around the opening. Slash through the center stopping 1/2″ from the ends. Clip into corners. Turn the lining to the inside and press.
Step 3
Center the closed zippper in the opening. Using a zipper foot, topstitch close to the edge around all sides.

Step 4
Fold the pocket lning up. Stitch the sides of the pocket with a narrow seam. Zig zag or overcast edges.

Step 5
Turn to the right side facing up. Fold the top above the zipper down, so that you see the narrow seam. Using a zipper foot, stitch across the top of the narrow seam.

You are done! Still feel a little nervous about trying it? Use this technique to add a pocket to the lining of a purse. It gives a very finished appearance and you can “test drive” the technique in an inconspicuous place.

3 thoughts on “Zippers Exposed!

  1. Anonymous Reply

    Thanks so much for this most appreciative lesson. I've been wanting to install zippers this way since I began making bags for my new website last month. You saved me the trial and error of learning to do it myself. Many thanks.

  2. Anonymous Reply

    Thanks for this. The print on the package is so tiny, I could barely make anything out. What I could see was hard to understand. This made things clear and easy!

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